Crafting Precision in Bra Construction: Sewing the Bowl Edge with Glue Bones

Hello everyone, I’m Lia. Today, let’s explore the meticulous process of creating the bowl edge by sewing glue bones, a technique that enhances the structure and aesthetics of bras.

Bundling into Glue Bones

Bundling Technique:

• Sewing the Back and Side Cups: The back and side cups are sewn together using a double-needle technique to bundle the fabric with a layer of interfacing, incorporating glue bones for added support. This method effectively prevents the cups from curling or deforming. It’s essential to use a double-needle sewing machine and ensure the interfacing color matches the fabric. During the bundling process, make sure to fully open the seam allowance to avoid puckering. The stitching on both sides of the bundle should be consistent and even, and the size of the glue bones must align with the correct dimensions to prevent fabric shrinkage during sewing.

Vertical Bowl Lining

Lining Techniques:

• Lining the Bowl Surface: The fabric is neatly wrapped around the cup surface for an aesthetically pleasing overall appearance. Depending on the style, different lining methods are employed, such as single-lining the bowl edge, reverse wrapping of the fabric edge, or pleating the fabric at the bone position. Precise craftsmanship is required, with single-needle sewing. Pay close attention to the lining technique, controlling the tension of the fabric during lining to avoid it being too loose or too tight. If it’s too loose, the entire cup surface will lack a three-dimensional shape; if it’s too tight, it will cause the entire cotton cup to deform, affecting the comfort of wearing. During the sewing process, ensure the bone positions on both sides of the fabric are symmetrical, the fabric waves at the bowl position are aligned, and the seam allowance is kept even, not exceeding 3mm.

Sewing the Bowl Edge

Sewing Process:

• Edge Sewing: This step is relatively straightforward but still demands skilled control. Utilize a specialized sewing machine for this process. Carefully manage the tension to avoid cutting the cotton at the bowl edge or leaving empty spaces, and prevent the fabric from stretching or shrinking. Smoothly trim away the excess fabric, lining, and second layer along the bowl edge, adjust the stitch density to be loose, ensure the stitching is normal, and neatly align and place the pieces.

The art of sewing glue bones into the bowl edge requires precision and meticulous attention to detail. Each step contributes to the overall comfort, fit, and aesthetic appeal of the bra. By mastering these techniques, we can create high-quality products that enhance both functionality and style.

Thank you for joining me on this journey through the craftsmanship of bra making. Stay tuned for more insights into the world of fashion and design.